Victron Quattro 48v 10kva inverter load test part 2 with 240v auto transformer| EG4 Battery

Hey, what's back to the channel and probably part two or even part three of this load test. So, in the previous test, we used this Victron Quattro 120 volt singlephase inverter with this auto transformer to put 240 volt uh load test using this load panel. But we ran into an issue which was battery capacity because the battery we were using was only rated for about 200 amps output. So, in this case, we added another battery, which is this uh ecoorthy 3U rack mount battery.

And we're going to revisit this load test to see if we can put maybe even more load on this system to try to figure out, you know, how well does it work before the battery capacity cuts out. So, if you're interested in that, stick with us. All right. So, we're not going to go over everything and explain all the connections again because we did that in probably the first Victron uh load test video and the second one with the uh auto transformer.

So, in this test, I'm only going to show you what's different versus the other two tests that we used. Right? So what's different is actually we have this ecoorthy uh 3U rack mount battery which is now connected in parallel using these uh parallel connect powerp pro parallel connectors with this battery here. So this battery I think is rated for 200 amps out and this battery I think is rated for about 100 amps out continuous.

So therefore we should have 300 amps of continuous output capacity. So let's get testing under way. The one thing I learned about this battery is that it does not have a pre-charge uh circuit or cycle to charge everything up. So, we're actually going to turn this one on last and we're going to use this battery to do the uh turn charge power on cycle.

So, that's on. This breaker is on. We're going to hit sorry move that going to hit that switch. That way it goes to the pre-charge cycle and it should power up.

There you go. So now you should hear that it is actually powered on. So now what we're going to do is power on this guy. Hit that breaker.

Hit that switch. Turn the BMS on. There we go. Now we should be, you know, all batteries connected.

So next thing we're going to do is we are going to turn on this auto transformer. Power it on. And then we will turn on the feed in breaker which is this guy. So now we're feeding this load panel and it's live.

What I have going in on here with this one uh thing is just to try to measure how much is going on the neutral bus because that's measuring AC current on that neutral bus which is that one coming from the auto transformer. So let's start off with using the uh 240 load which is this guy right here. This right now, as you can tell, is powering this, which is connected to this guy, the EG4 charge verter as it powers on. Let's see if we can get it up to close to 100 amps.

We'll watch it as it slowly ramps up. What it's going to be charging, and I don't recommend doing this. Like I said, this is only set up for load testing reasons. It's going to be charging this rack of batteries just to, you know, get some load going on it.

And then what we have is other uh singlephase loads. So we got that uh three induction cooktops, a heater. I guess we have three, but not a pan on that one. So only two.

So let's go see this guy ramp up. We're still going to be using this charge uh uh sorry uh what do you call this thing? The Surbo GX with the Touch 50, which is this guy right here. You can see it's slowly ramping up.

Um, this guy you can see is showing with only the charge further going. Sorry, the angle of this is terrible, but didn't leave too much slack or slack on that neutral line to really get a good view of this. But we're pulling about 5 amps, close to 5 amps with only the charge verter on. So, this is off, that's off, that's off.

All of that is off. So, there's only 240 coming out and we're still pulling close to about 5 amps on the neutral bus. 5600 watts. Uh the amps coming out of this battery is not going to be accurate.

Uh mainly because the BMS is only connected to this battery. So yes, the it it's accurate in terms of it's measuring this battery capacity, but what is not accurate is the uh total battery amperage going into the inverter because this battery, the EG4 wall mount battery is in parallel with this EcoFlow or not EcoFlow, Ecoorthy battery, which is uh if in case you're curious on how it's connected, we got the parallel kit with the Dexon connectors. Uh and then we just bolted that on to this here. A long story short, I try to switch them out, but it it's just too much work involved mainly because it's not the same size.

Got to drill a bigger hole. The length of that bus bar on the connector is also different. Whole long story. So, we just took a shortcut there this way.

Again, do not recommend it. So, anyways, the inverter right now is loaded with 5600 watts, about 5 amps on the neutral bus. Let's go load it up. Right.

So, uh, remember these two guys right here, this guy and this guy is on the same leg. This guy is not on the same leg. So, let's just see what happens when we enable this guy. Uh, that is this electric tea kettle.

And as you can see right here, we are now loading 12. 6 amps on the neutral bus. The neutral bus is coming from this or neutral current neutral conductor. It's coming from this auto transformer.

Auto transformer is creating that neutral to get that uh 240 and 120 volt load. And I don't know if you can hear it, but the fan is now on here. All right. So, that's 6600 watts.

Uh this electric tea kettle is going to boil the water really quick. So, we're going to have to get this testing underway pretty quick. Uh what we can do is enable this guy which is the secondary heater uh or the electric heater inside the garage here which like I said only for testing purposes for a little bit of safety measure. Let's just move this a little bit.

Reduce the heat on that. And then now you can see we're drawing close to 7800 uh watts. And now we're drawing 22 amps. So 22 amps on the neutral current and close to I I don't know 15 + 15 is 30 but it's not at max capacity.

So let's just say somewhere around 22 24 amps on the neutral bus uh on on one of the legs right now as we saw earlier. 22. All right. So now let's try to even it out a little bit and kick this guy on.

That guy turns on this induction cooktop. Let's turn that on. We'll turn the function to boil water, which I believe is the maximum power that comes out of uh the induction cooktop. That's at 460.

Now, we are cooking 9500 watts continuous and uh it says right now 149 amps is coming out of the EG4 wall mount battery, which is going to be accurate like I mentioned because it does have BMS connected. And if you remember the video two, the episode before this, uh, at the state that we're on right now, um, that's when the battery kicked out and everything shut off, mainly because we hit the maximum amperage out of this battery. So, now we're at 11 amps there. And then let's hit another one here, which is going to put us over the uh, what it's rated.

Remember, this inverter is rated for 8,000 continuous at uh 20 20° C or something like that. It's warm in this garage already. It's summer or close to summer. So, hit this guy, which powers on another induction cooktop, but there is nothing on that guy.

So, here we're going to move this. This is why you should not try to do this with one hand and prepare ahead of time. So, don't be like me. So, here we're going to hit this guy on, but let's let's ramp it up slowly.

This guy is on. Uh, we'll put it on low heat, I think. I can't tell if that's on. There's another thing where you should try to prepare ahead of time.

We're at 140°, which is pretty low. We can ramp it up slowly. 10 10,000 watts. Only five amps on the neutral bus because we're balancing it out as much as possible.

Let's ramp that up a little bit more to 212. It's kind of coming off weird there, but you can see 212. 10,500. Ramp it up a little bit more.

260 300. That's still hovering around 10,500. 5 amps on the neutral bus. All right.

So, let's see if we can go up to about 460, which is maximum power. Now, we're close to 11,000 watts. Over actually 11,000 watts, actually. And hit the light on that guy.

We're drawing 2 amps on the neutral bus. Two amps. The Victron is saying it is overloading. So, what we should probably do is kick some of these guys off.

Let's just kick that off. Kick that off real quick. Actually, let's kick this off. Mainly because that's We can hit this back on.

Boil water. All right. So, if we go back, let me see if the alert actually came up there. Uh notifications 52 that's today.

High discharge current. So we did hit a high discharge current but the it did not kick off. The other alerts didn't seem like it came in about it overloading. That's interesting.

The quattro is here. So actually let's just see what happens if we really load it up. Right. Let's do that again.

Let's go back here. Let's hit the tea kettle. That's going again. Turn that guy on.

Okay, there's definitely a way to do this. There you go. Bring it back to 11,000 watts. The inverter says it is up overheating.

I do see it. or overloading. I mean, it really doesn't help that this heater right under it is just pumping out hot air into the intake of of the uh uh quattro here. So, that's not ideal.

So, don't do that. But, it is taking it. You can even see on this uh touch uh 50 that the servo is reporting on that it is under overload conditions with that red light blinking. But the notifications doesn't tell you it's on uh overload.

Still got the high discharge but not the overload on the quattro. So that's interesting. But everything is powered on and it is handling it just fine. Even though it is saying that it's overloaded.

So uh this guy temperature re uh not not an issue so far. Uh the neutral bus still only has about two amps on the neutral bus. Uh so it can take it. I don't know how long it can take it, but um it's handling it just fine at about 11,000 watts.

All right, so that wasn't the best test, but we got pretty far. We definitely figured out that this quattro inverter can get up to 11 uh little over 11K on overload, right? And still hold it for a little bit. We had to stop the test mainly because the electric tea kettle actually ended up boiling the water before like it kicked out.

But the important thing is that uh the Quattro can definitely handle an overload situation for a few minutes. I'm not sure how long it can handle it for, but for a few minutes before it kicks everything off because even though it was overloaded, the uh water was still boiling. The uh induction cooktops were still boiling water. Uh everything was still functioning as perfectly intended uh under overload conditions.

So I do want to clear up one thing and thank you to the commenter uh on the previous episode that pointed out that if you balance the loads um on the legs then you don't need to worry about the total current on the uh neutral bus main because because you're balancing it that as you're balancing it the the imbalance comes gets closer to zero. So it's only a uh net sum or or a difference the difference of the imbalance if that makes sense. So if you have 15 amps on one leg and 15 amps on another leg then you're pretty much imbalance zero is that you know reality probably not. But the point is, if you wanted to use this guy or any 120 volt uh singlephase inverter with this auto transformer, you can load up a load center with a 240 volt uh and a split phase and many single single legs.

As long as you wire it all up and use the loads or manage your loads properly, then you can get a lot of 120 volt loads and a lot of 240 volt loads perfectly fine. So, thank you to the comment uh member or commenter on the previous episode for pointing that out. I do really appreciate that. We're all here to learn.

So, that's definitely a good learning experience. So, that's very interesting. So, make sure you balance the loads as much as possible and you will be solid and good to go. The one thing we found out was the Serbo uh GX, which is actually down here, but the Touch 50 was not alerting technically, no notifications that the in the inverter was on overload.

Um, even though on the Touch 50 you could see that red light flashing on the Touch 50. So that's something interesting. I thought that maybe there would be like a notification popup or something like that, especially because there was notification popups of the uh EG4 battery under high discharge conditions, right? So um it did have that, but it didn't have the overload of that.

So that's very interesting. If you're interested in how all of this stuff was wired up for the test, go check out the first video or second video, I think, and you can kind of figure that out. But the important thing is that we learned that this guy can take a lot. So, what's going to be super interesting coming up is when we add another one, then we're really going to have to amp up the batteries because this one uh that's connected in parallel is not going to be enough this and this to power both quattros.

That's going to be a lot of power we're talking about. So, if you want to know more about that, stay tuned and then we'll, you know, get to that at some part in the middle, some part later. So, hopefully this video helped you guys out. Have a great day.

Get back to work and we'll see you guys next time.